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Whats your guys opinions and personal experience with ASUS and MSI motherboards for AMD cpu's which if you can include info about how things are including -Bios -Defects -Pros -Cons I want to buy a mobo for my amd cpu but seems like newegg keeps narrowing down to those two main trusted brands when I kinda want a gigabyte one
What boards do you have in mind? Are you looking at an older 790 chipset or a newer 870/890? A couple links would be helpful so we can see exactly what you're looking for. I own two MSI boards. The BIOS for my 790FX-GD70 has so many features and tweaks that it's crazy, whereas the BIOS for my older 690G model is way more limited. Neither of the MSI boards have ever had defects; both booted up immediately, the 790FX model handling my gaming, etc, and the 690G model doing hard time as a home-theatre PC. Both are rock solid. Pros of MSI are that their boards are often a bit cheaper than the competition from Asus or Gigabyte. However, the reason they are generally cheaper is because they have fewer features, and MSI's support is not as good as Asus' or Gigabyte's.
You're going to need to be a hell of alot more specific with your processor socket size and model, since not all motherboards will fit your processor.
nikki6ixx wrote on Tue, 08 June 2010 23:37 What boards do you have in mind? Are you looking at an older 790 chipset or a newer 870/890? A couple links would be helpful so we can see exactly what you're looking for. I own two MSI boards. The BIOS for my 790FX-GD70 has so many features and tweaks that it's crazy, whereas the BIOS for my older 690G model is way more limited. Neither of the MSI boards have ever had defects; both booted up immediately, the 790FX model handling my gaming, etc, and the 690G model doing hard time as a home-theatre PC. Both are rock solid. Pros of MSI are that their boards are often a bit cheaper than the competition from Asus or Gigabyte. However, the reason they are generally cheaper is because they have fewer features, and MSI's support is not as good as Asus' or Gigabyte's. -AMD 800 series -I dont think ill be over clocking -I want to be able to have moderate amount of BIOS tweaks and settings I can change -Preferred a FX chipset series -Dont need more than 2 PCI-E 2.0 x16 -Stay below 200 dollars -Support phenom II x4 -Support DDR3 Ram -If possible USB3 Thats All I can think up at moment, I dont have many in mind right now until I narrow down my search, SO far Im using newegg and tiger direct to shop
(SSnipe) -BLU3Y3Z- wrote on Tue, 08 June 2010 23:48 nikki6ixx wrote on Tue, 08 June 2010 23:37 What boards do you have in mind? Are you looking at an older 790 chipset or a newer 870/890? A couple links would be helpful so we can see exactly what you're looking for. I own two MSI boards. The BIOS for my 790FX-GD70 has so many features and tweaks that it's crazy, whereas the BIOS for my older 690G model is way more limited. Neither of the MSI boards have ever had defects; both booted up immediately, the 790FX model handling my gaming, etc, and the 690G model doing hard time as a home-theatre PC. Both are rock solid. Pros of MSI are that their boards are often a bit cheaper than the competition from Asus or Gigabyte. However, the reason they are generally cheaper is because they have fewer features, and MSI's support is not as good as Asus' or Gigabyte's. -AMD 800 series -I dont think ill be over clocking -I want to be able to have moderate amount of BIOS tweaks and settings I can change -Preferred a FX chipset series -Dont need more than 2 PCI-E 2.0 x16 -Stay below 200 dollars -Support phenom II x4 -Support DDR3 Ram -If possible USB3 Thats All I can think up at moment, I dont have many in mind right now until I narrow down my search, SO far Im using newegg and tiger direct to shop also to add its gonna be socket AM3 and I heard the GX series only differences from the FX by having dual onbaord graphics and 2 PCI-E 2.0 x16 Slots whiles FX has 4 And up, I dont need 4, except I read by peopel They seem to say the FX are alot stable and faster then GX but while FX has so many PCI-E 2.0 x16 slots they barly have one of none of the others like a normal pci slot
You're more or less correct: GX boards can have two PCIe x16 slots, but if you decide to use both slots for graphics cards, then each one runs at x8. Unless you think you'll be running Crossfire, and have a pair of very powerful cards, going with a 790GX board is the best way to go, especially if you're not that interested in overclocking. You can run a pair of ATI 5850's if you wanted to on a GX board and there wouldn't be a problem. If I were you, I'd be looking at this GX board: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128435&cm_re=890gx- _-13-128-435-_-Product The reviews for it are great, and it has all the features you want. However, you may also want to consider an '870' board. An 870 has fewer features than an 890GX, like only one PCIe x16 slot, and generally fewer overclocking options. They still support SATA6, and USB 3... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128443&cm_re=870-_- 13-128-443-_-Product It has two PCIe slots, but only the top one runs at x16. Putting a graphics card in the second one will make it very, very slow. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157198&cm_re=870-_- 13-157-198-_-Product AsRock's board is interesting in that it advertises 16x/8x PCIe slots, which is just like a GX board. Either that's a typo, or that's a really good deal for 95 dollars. The reviewers here were also very pleased with it.
nikki6ixx wrote on Wed, 09 June 2010 10:39 You're more or less correct: GX boards can have two PCIe x16 slots, but if you decide to use both slots for graphics cards, then each one runs at x8. Unless you think you'll be running Crossfire, and have a pair of very powerful cards, going with a 790GX board is the best way to go, especially if you're not that interested in overclocking. You can run a pair of ATI 5850's if you wanted to on a GX board and there wouldn't be a problem. If I were you, I'd be looking at this GX board: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128435&cm_re=890gx- _-13-128-435-_-Product The reviews for it are great, and it has all the features you want. However, you may also want to consider an '870' board. An 870 has fewer features than an 890GX, like only one PCIe x16 slot, and generally fewer overclocking options. They still support SATA6, and USB 3... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128443&cm_re=870-_- 13-128-443-_-Product It has two PCIe slots, but only the top one runs at x16. Putting a graphics card in the second one will make it very, very slow. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157198&cm_re=870-_- 13-157-198-_-Product AsRock's board is interesting in that it advertises 16x/8x PCIe slots, which is just like a GX board. Either that's a typo, or that's a really good deal for 95 dollars. The reviewers here were also very pleased with it. Thanks Ill check out the boards in a bit, so Asrocks have good boards? someone told me foxcon is very good awell what are your guys thoughts on that?
Ok here's a Better List Of What I want -FX or GX (Not yet Decided, Some Fx boards Are better than the GX and vice verse) -USB 3.0 -SATA 6.0g/s -AMD SB850 South Bridge -Min 2 PCI-E 2.0 x16 -Min PCI Slots 2 -AM3 -DDR3 -Tweakable BIOS -Under 200 dollars -Support phenom II x4 Here's some motherboards I narrowed it down GIGABYTE: FX: Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128441 There Site: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3416#sp Cons: -1 Normal Pci Slot GX: Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128435 There Site: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3420#sp Pros: -2 Normal Pci Slot asROCKS: Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157196 There Site: http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=890FX%20Deluxe3&cat=Overview Pros: -2 Normal Pci Slots -8 SATA 6gb/s Cons: -2 USB3 ASUS: Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131631 Tiger Direct: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=58384 45&CatId=4296 There Site: http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=eCWbkolMf0DOW0IV&templete=2 Pros: -2 Normal Pci Slots -3 PCI-e 2.0 x16 -6SATA 6gb/s -4 USB 3 MSI: Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130274 There Site: http://us.msi.com/index.php?func=prodmbspec&maincat_no=1&cat2_no=171&amp ;amp ;cat3_no=&prod_no=1986#menu Cons: -Price!! -1 Normal PCI Slot Pros: - 4 PCI Express 2.0 x16 or is that a con? honestly im diggin the ASRock 890FX DELUXE3 and GIGABYTE GA-890GPA-UD3H the msi is to expensive for those extra pcie slots and the gigabyte fx is like 40 bucks more with stuff i dont need i just wanted a fx since i hear fx is faster than gx but eh nothing i can do ASRock one tho dont have many reviews
Both the Gigabyte and AsRock look like real good bets. It seems the AsRock is on sale; at its normal price, I'm not sure I'd buy it, but at 155, that's a really good deal, especially with the extra USB 3 ports, and SATA6. The power regulation around the CPU also looks very good, should you decide you want to overclock in the future, or buy a powerful CPU in the future. The decision lies with you: The Gigabyte costs 15 dollars less; you get fewer USB 3.0 ports, and the PCI-e slots will both run at x8 if you decide to use Crossfire. On the other hand, Gigabyte is known for quality, and also has 'dual-bios' in case something goes horribly wrong while updating or overclocking; it's a useful backup. AsRock's support is also more limited than Gigabyte's, and if you need help on a computer forum, you'll find more people with Gigabyte's than AsRock's. At the same time, AsRock's been getting a lot more attention because their product has been really good lately. Go with what you think is right. It seems you've looked around, and think the AsRock is the one for you, so that's probably the one to get. Maybe make sure you know who to call, or to contact at either AsRock or Gigabyte in case something goes wrong. I've been lucky enough to never have gotten a dead board, but it can happen with any brand. Also, figure out and understand Newegg's RMA process in case you have to send the board back to them. Just make sure you take your time building the system, double check your connections, and you should be fine. Here's a link to an AsRock help forum: http://forums.tweaktown.com/f80/
Double post - One question: Is there a particular reason why you're looking at just AMD?
nikki6ixx wrote on Wed, 09 June 2010 23:51 Double post - One question: Is there a particular reason why you're looking at just AMD? Budget, Im using my graduation money, anyways i read up about ASRocks and they say they suck. so not sure which of the two to choose from
(SSnipe) -BLU3Y3Z- wrote on Thu, 10 June 2010 14:19 nikki6ixx wrote on Wed, 09 June 2010 23:51 Double post - One question: Is there a particular reason why you're looking at just AMD? Budget, Im using my graduation money, anyways i read up about ASRocks and they say they suck. so not sure which of the two to choose from Where exactly did somebody say AsRock sucked? It depends who you ask. Plenty of people say Asus, and MSI suck, too. It's not as if they're wrong or right, but they're in a real minority. You have to realize that if people are happy with a product, they're often too busy enjoying it to not write about it, whereas someone who has a bad product will complain, and do it a lot. I've also found that a lot of people who say a product sucks, like a motherboard, often haven't done their homework, and their problems may have been their own fault. This is often the case with Newegg reviews.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 10 June 2010 12:33 (SSnipe) -BLU3Y3Z- wrote on Thu, 10 June 2010 14:19 nikki6ixx wrote on Wed, 09 June 2010 23:51 Double post - One question: Is there a particular reason why you're looking at just AMD? Budget, Im using my graduation money, anyways i read up about ASRocks and they say they suck. so not sure which of the two to choose from Where exactly did somebody say AsRock sucked? It depends who you ask. Plenty of people say Asus, and MSI suck, too. It's not as if they're wrong or right, but they're in a real minority. You have to realize that if people are happy with a product, they're often too busy enjoying it to not write about it, whereas someone who has a bad product will complain, and do it a lot. I've also found that a lot of people who say a product sucks, like a motherboard, often haven't done their homework, and their problems may have been their own fault. This is often the case with Newegg reviews. Well I did a gigabyte vs ASRock serach on google and came up with a few sites with ltos of post of shit talk all on ASRock saying that the quality of it is low and cheap and whats its made out of sucks, I really like the ASRock one but damn idk
As I said, people get one bad board, or one bad experience, and then they spread their idiocy all over. And, I've noticed a lot of nerds with PC's will base their opinions on the opinions of others; by the looks of things, it seems almost 90% of the people who say the brand sucks have never even owned one. You can bet that many of those people will only buy an Asus or Gigabyte. Tons of people say MSI sucks too, but my experience with their products has been completely positive. It's your call to make. After what I've read about the AsRock, it seems like a great board. But so is the Gigabyte. Edit: TomsHardware awarded AsRock's X58 board a 'Best Buy' because it was so good, and offered a lot of features, so I doubt quality is a big problem.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 10 June 2010 12:59 As I said, people get one bad board, or one bad experience, and then they spread their idiocy all over. And, I've noticed a lot of nerds with PC's will base their opinions on the opinions of others; by the looks of things, it seems almost 90% of the people who say the brand sucks have never even owned one. You can bet that many of those people will only buy an Asus or Gigabyte. Tons of people say MSI sucks too, but my experience with their products has been completely positive. It's your call to make. After what I've read about the AsRock, it seems like a great board. But so is the Gigabyte. Edit: TomsHardware awarded AsRock's X58 board a 'Best Buy' because it was so good, and offered a lot of features, so I doubt quality is a big problem. I guess your right I jsut wish I knew for sure without a doute if this one is good, reviews seem good, just not alot of them
Another review came out for the AsRock: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/ASRock-890FX-Deluxe3-Motherboard/1022/1 The more I read about this board, the more I like it. I can't find any particular way that AsRock 'cut corners' with it, as the power regulation system is great, and its performance is on par with the higher priced 890FX competition. Even the placement of the front-panel connectors is really convenient compared to my MSI. Also, AsRock lets you save BIOS profiles, which is handy when you're learning to fool around with overclocking. The AsRock seems to have exactly what you want, so I'd get it. The last thing you want to do is buy something else, and then regret it. I doubt the AsRock will have problems, especially if you're not going to be pushing it too much, and if it does, there's always RMA processes to help you return it. Just make sure you find out the proper contacts for warranty inquiries, and help.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 10 June 2010 13:22 Another review came out for the AsRock: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/ASRock-890FX-Deluxe3-Motherboard/1022/1 The more I read about this board, the more I like it. I can't find any particular way that AsRock 'cut corners' with it, as the power regulation system is great, and its performance is on par with the higher priced 890FX competition. Even the placement of the front-panel connectors is really convenient compared to my MSI. Also, AsRock lets you save BIOS profiles, which is handy when you're learning to fool around with overclocking. The AsRock seems to have exactly what you want, so I'd get it. The last thing you want to do is buy something else, and then regret it. I doubt the AsRock will have problems, especially if you're not going to be pushing it too much, and if it does, there's always RMA processes to help you return it. Just make sure you find out the proper contacts for warranty inquiries, and help. I dont plan to over clock so i should be fine im still do some research =]u been huge help nikki
Another thing. Do you already have a CPU and RAM? I'm asking because you should keep an eye out for combo's on Newegg. Often they sell motherboard with RAM and CPU's and you can save some money that way. For example: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.398185 If you were looking to get a Phenom 955 already, this combo would 'effectively' shave 35 dollars (with the rebate) off of the MSI 890FX board, making it 165 dollars - $10 more than the AsRock. Currently, there's no combo's offered with the AsRock. Just some food for thought.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 10 June 2010 14:14 Another thing. Do you already have a CPU and RAM? I'm asking because you should keep an eye out for combo's on Newegg. Often they sell motherboard with RAM and CPU's and you can save some money that way. For example: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.398185 If you were looking to get a Phenom 955 already, this combo would 'effectively' shave 35 dollars (with the rebate) off of the MSI 890FX board, making it 165 dollars - $10 more than the AsRock. Currently, there's no combo's offered with the AsRock. Just some food for thought. Thanks, I saw combos but didnt like them heres what I wanna get of course the ASRock mobo http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157196 memory that is on the MOBO's compatibility list http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231193 and cpu http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727
I'd pick the 955 over the 965. The 965 is only 200MHz faster, and you can easily change the speed of the 955 to match the 965. It's a very, very small overclock, and it's very easy. It'll save you 20 dollars, too! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808&cm_re=phenom _955-_-19-103-808-_-Product Good choice on the RAM! I use G-Skill and it's good stuff. They stand behind their product. However, I should note that you'll need to play around in the BIOS, or in AMD Overdrive to set the proper speed and timings. Just a heads up.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 10 June 2010 14:54 I'd pick the 955 over the 965. The 965 is only 200MHz faster, and you can easily change the speed of the 955 to match the 965. It's a very, very small overclock, and it's very easy. It'll save you 20 dollars, too! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808&cm_re=phenom _955-_-19-103-808-_-Product Good choice on the RAM! I use G-Skill and it's good stuff. They stand behind their product. However, I should note that you'll need to play around in the BIOS, or in AMD Overdrive to set the proper speed and timings. Just a heads up. Is it that the only difference so I can over clock the 955 to be 965? also whats wrong with timing, as I said this ram was on the MOBO list of ram that works with it =]
Yep. The 955 is very easy to overclock by changing the 'multiplier.' It's a very easy thing to do; when you're all set up and your PC runs fine, it's just a matter of going into the BIOS and ticking a number up one or two points. No voltage change, nada. It's easy to find help on how to do so, or even I could probably list the process. As for the RAM, it may be on the list for the motherboard, but you may still need to change the timings and speed in your BIOS in order to maximize the performance. It may just default to 1066MHz. Once again, it's very easy to do in the BIOS or in AMD Overdrive. To be honest, I wouldn't worry about that stuff until you've got your PC working, and you've used it for a while.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 10 June 2010 17:01 Yep. The 955 is very easy to overclock by changing the 'multiplier.' It's a very easy thing to do; when you're all set up and your PC runs fine, it's just a matter of going into the BIOS and ticking a number up one or two points. No voltage change, nada. It's easy to find help on how to do so, or even I could probably list the process. As for the RAM, it may be on the list for the motherboard, but you may still need to change the timings and speed in your BIOS in order to maximize the performance. It may just default to 1066MHz. Once again, it's very easy to do in the BIOS or in AMD Overdrive. To be honest, I wouldn't worry about that stuff until you've got your PC working, and you've used it for a while. I plan on buying the 3 parts I am just about 50 bucks short which im trying to come up with
So nikki, I jsut ordered the 3 parts, so when it comes here there site ahs a tut on how to unlock the cores and then maybe you or someone can help me overclock it to match up to the 965? without increasing voltage?
Awesome! Ok, when you've built the computer, and installed Windows and made sure everything works, then you can change the multiplier. I'm using my MSI BIOS as a guide, but yours should] be relatively similar. All you need to do is start your computer up, tap 'Delete' or whatever key AsRock uses to enter the BIOS as it starts up, and it'll take you into the BIOS. When you're in, look around in the different menus for something to do with overclocking. It might be 'Cell Menu,' 'OC Tweaker' or something to that extent. In the menu, you'll likely find something like 'CPU Ratio' or 'CPU Multiplier.' There will be a number next to it that says x16, or it might say 'Auto.' What you do is highlight it, tap Enter, and go down the numbers until you come across x17. Press Enter, and it should show your CPU frequency as 3400, or 3.4GHz. Next, find an option that is called 'AMD Cool & Quiet' and disable it. Save your BIOS settings as a profile if possible, and then save the settings, and exit. Your PC will reboot. When you're back in Windows, you can use a program like CPU-Z to verify your CPU speed, which should be 3.4GHz. *Make sure you don't play around too much in the BIOS at first, or you could cause your new PC a lot of problems*
nikki6ixx wrote on Sat, 19 June 2010 11:06 Awesome! Ok, when you've built the computer, and installed Windows and made sure everything works, then you can change the multiplier. I'm using my MSI BIOS as a guide, but yours should] be relatively similar. All you need to do is start your computer up, tap 'Delete' or whatever key AsRock uses to enter the BIOS as it starts up, and it'll take you into the BIOS. When you're in, look around in the different menus for something to do with overclocking. It might be 'Cell Menu,' 'OC Tweaker' or something to that extent. In the menu, you'll likely find something like 'CPU Ratio' or 'CPU Multiplier.' There will be a number next to it that says x16, or it might say 'Auto.' What you do is highlight it, tap Enter, and go down the numbers until you come across x17. Press Enter, and it should show your CPU frequency as 3400, or 3.4GHz. Next, find an option that is called 'AMD Cool & Quiet' and disable it. Save your BIOS settings as a profile if possible, and then save the settings, and exit. Your PC will reboot. When you're back in Windows, you can use a program like CPU-Z to verify your CPU speed, which should be 3.4GHz. *Make sure you don't play around too much in the BIOS at first, or you could cause your new PC a lot of problems* Well got the parts but not enough power I barely could get it to boot but it can OC itsslef by 4 or eveen 10 20 or 30 % its cool but will this http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16817121066 work for the mobo http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157196 reason why i am asking is i dont knwo much about EPS
I'd recommend this power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006&Tpk=corsair% 20750 You can get a rebate on it too; it's a great unit, and it's what I use. I have it running two 4870's in Crossfire, a few HD's, and my overclocked system and it never breaks a sweat. If you want something modular, then check this one out: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012&cm_re=corsai r_modular-_-17-139-012-_-Product Less wattage, but still should meet your needs. Make sure to do the rebates: they're worth your time. Just make sure you follow all the instructions, and double check your info.
nikki6ixx wrote on Sun, 20 June 2010 12:50 I'd recommend this power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006&Tpk=corsair% 20750 You can get a rebate on it too; it's a great unit, and it's what I use. I have it running two 4870's in Crossfire, a few HD's, and my overclocked system and it never breaks a sweat. If you want something modular, then check this one out: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012&cm_re=corsai r_modular-_-17-139-012-_-Product Less wattage, but still should meet your needs. Make sure to do the rebates: they're worth your time. Just make sure you follow all the instructions, and double check your info. Well I saw them both before, I like the one I posted since its good price and led blue lights match my case and you can disconnect the wires you dont use, alos since it has i think 4 12v rails. which idk really what they are but people say they are good and more are better? can anyone clarify this? and etc, currently i have a consair 450 watt psu, my case has a total of 8 case fans 1 harddrives led lights heatsink with 2 fans vid card with fan etc and had to turn all of it off turn all fans on low, and unplug harddrive, dvd burner all fans and etc just to get it to turn on so in BIOS it recognize all the memory sticks and cpu so im sure its working, but I need a higher psu
People have different opinions on the 'rail' thing. The reason I chose the Corsair is because their supplies are known for being rock solid. In addition, the 750 Watt unit has a 5 year warranty, and the modular 620 Watt one has a 7 year warranty. The Kingwin is 3 years, so that already indicates to me that Corsair believes in their product. However, for most people, and probably you too, the Kingwin will likely be perfectly fine. But the Corsair is cheaper than the Kingwin after a rebate anyways, and since you have an Antec 1200, wrapping up the extra cables and hiding them in a low hard drive bay shouldn't be too hard. But, it's your choice.
Could you explain the rail thing to me more please?
Not too much, other people do it better. Here's a good start: http://compreviews.about.com/od/cases/a/PSUWattage.htm http://www.wikihow.com/Buy-a-Power-Supply Here's the webpage for the Kingwin power supply. http://kingwin.com/products/cate/power_supplies/lz_750.asp The WikiHow page lists Kingwin as a 'low quality' supplier, but anyone can say that. It's up to you to do your research.
I bought the consiar one, sorry if it is spelled wrong, but anyways i hope it comes in time to do the rebate
excellent choice
(SSnipe) -BLU3Y3Z- wrote on Wed, 23 June 2010 14:29 I bought the consiar one, sorry if it is spelled wrong, but anyways i hope it comes in time to do the rebate As long as you fill it out quickly and make sure everything is followed to a T, then it should be cool. Corsair's awesome with their rebates, and they send them back really quickly too!
i think ill get it, package is coming from a place 45 minutes from here
Got it all set up now, got psu, except its messing up and idk whats going on some of the time loads up but screen wont, other wise, freezes during boot, or screen turns on when its on and etc what shell i do..
Ok, make sure everything is wired correctly, and your motherboard is not making contact directly with your case, causing shorts. When you screw your board onto the case, there needs to be a small space between the case and board. Maybe take a stick of RAM out, and see if anything changes. If it still has problems, replace that stick with the other, and try again. I'll poke around for a couple threads to help you out. Lots of people have problems getting things off the ground the first time, so you're not alone with your problems.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 24 June 2010 18:22 Ok, make sure everything is wired correctly, and your motherboard is not making contact directly with your case, causing shorts. When you screw your board onto the case, there needs to be a small space between the case and board. Maybe take a stick of RAM out, and see if anything changes. If it still has problems, replace that stick with the other, and try again. I'll poke around for a couple threads to help you out. Lots of people have problems getting things off the ground the first time, so you're not alone with your problems. Edit: Here's the thread I was looking for. It's very good, and it uses an AM3 board too, so it should look familiar to your AsRock one. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-boot-video-pro blems Go through it step by step and double check. Good luck!
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 24 June 2010 16:28 nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 24 June 2010 18:22 Ok, make sure everything is wired correctly, and your motherboard is not making contact directly with your case, causing shorts. When you screw your board onto the case, there needs to be a small space between the case and board. Maybe take a stick of RAM out, and see if anything changes. If it still has problems, replace that stick with the other, and try again. I'll poke around for a couple threads to help you out. Lots of people have problems getting things off the ground the first time, so you're not alone with your problems. Edit: Here's the thread I was looking for. It's very good, and it uses an AM3 board too, so it should look familiar to your AsRock one. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-boot-video-pro blems Go through it step by step and double check. Good luck! no luck whathappening so far is and hese 3 things happen randomly and more then once, no order blank screen keyboard dont light up blank screen, keyboards light up turned on without any problems freezes on random times so now i left for a few hours come hom it turns on lights up but all blank screen and no keybaord lights. and nothing i do changes it =[ =[ =[
Ok, your board has a reset, and on/off button built into it, so here's what you should do. Remove the motherboard from your case, detaching any cables that hook to your case. Inspect the board for any possible damages. Have the board sit on the anti-static bag it came on. Make sure all the power connections are correct, have a stick of RAM in the slot closest to your CPU socket, and then try and boot it up. It's easier to diagnose problems if it's out of the case. When it's booting up, are you able to get into the BIOS? Also, do any numbers or letters appear on the readout?
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 24 June 2010 17:00 Ok, your board has a reset, and on/off button built into it, so here's what you should do. Remove the motherboard from your case, detaching any cables that hook to your case. Inspect the board for any possible damages. Have the board sit on the anti-static bag it came on. Make sure all the power connections are correct, have a stick of RAM in the slot closest to your CPU socket, and then try and boot it up. It's easier to diagnose problems if it's out of the case. When it's booting up, are you able to get into the BIOS? Also, do any numbers or letters appear on the readout? when it does boot i am easily able to get into bios to see cpu and both mem sticks are being read and i guess working functionally could to much terminal compound cause problems?
(SSnipe) -BLU3Y3Z- wrote on Thu, 24 June 2010 20:08 when it does boot i am easily able to get into bios to see cpu and both mem sticks are being read and i guess working functionally could to much terminal compound cause problems? I'm assuming you mean thermal compound? Well, yes, but only if the compound has somehow gotten into the CPU socket, or if it's on the motherboard itself. I don't think that's your issue. Normally problems like this can be due to the power supply. Sometimes, even good ones can be duds. So, what you ought to do is find another working PC, replace it's PSU with your Corsair, hook everything up, and see if it runs properly. If everything works OK, then maybe try this: Hook your Corsair back up to your AsRock, and then disconnect the hard drives. Start your PC up without the HD's, and see if you can get into the BIOS several times in a row, without problems.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 24 June 2010 18:39 (SSnipe) -BLU3Y3Z- wrote on Thu, 24 June 2010 20:08 when it does boot i am easily able to get into bios to see cpu and both mem sticks are being read and i guess working functionally could to much terminal compound cause problems? I'm assuming you mean thermal compound? Well, yes, but only if the compound has somehow gotten into the CPU socket, or if it's on the motherboard itself. I don't think that's your issue. Normally problems like this can be due to the power supply. Sometimes, even good ones can be duds. So, what you ought to do is find another working PC, replace it's PSU with your Corsair, hook everything up, and see if it runs properly. If everything works OK, then maybe try this: Hook your Corsair back up to your AsRock, and then disconnect the hard drives. Start your PC up without the HD's, and see if you can get into the BIOS several times in a row, without problems. I got it! i took apart the entire thing, wiped uped the thermal compound and put less in a dot in middle instead of wiping it with my finger which i read is bad also tighten the heat sink way way more since i saw scratches where the heatsink im guessing hit my case (metal to metal) the screws that hold down the mobo i put this orange plastic pieces between (CAME WIT CASE) and make sured no wires were hit anything alll and all now it works so smooth..next i wanna try to overclock it to 3.4 ghz idk 100% how, i increased the multiplier by 10 and didn't reach it on there OC tool then pc crashed, had to go into bios to put back to default lol
Awesome news! Ok, increasing the multiplier by 10, which is 16 to 26 is a bad idea lol. Word to the wise, never do anything drastic like that as you can risk messing up your computer. Always take it slow. To OC to 3.4GHz, all you'll need to do is set your multiplier to 17 in the BIOS. Also, disable Cool n' Quiet. After that, save everything, exit the BIOS, and stress test your CPU with a program like Prime 95. I wouldn't use AsRock's software to fiddle with that stuff anyways. AMD Overdrive, which you can download from AMD's site is a great tool that lets you monitor temperatures, and customize your system.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 24 June 2010 23:53 Awesome news! Ok, increasing the multiplier by 10, which is 16 to 26 is a bad idea lol. Word to the wise, never do anything drastic like that as you can risk messing up your computer. Always take it slow. To OC to 3.4GHz, all you'll need to do is set your multiplier to 17 in the BIOS. Also, disable Cool n' Quiet. After that, save everything, exit the BIOS, and stress test your CPU with a program like Prime 95. I wouldn't use AsRock's software to fiddle with that stuff anyways. AMD Overdrive, which you can download from AMD's site is a great tool that lets you monitor temperatures, and customize your system. well mobo came with a OC tool which even shows the ghz cu etc but i put multiplier up and didnt see ghz go up =S 10 was ok 15 was ok then went to 20..and froze bios has lots and ots of options even settings to OC it blank % i choose, when i can ill take pics of the settings and post them on here
Im trying to learn more about over clocking so far im having some trouble i do know there is a elasionship between FBS or amds HT x multiplier but thats where i am stuck at, some of these things have more then one name time to bust out cpu-z
Yeah, often motherboard makers will give different names for things like the multiplier or FSB. I wouldn't worry about the FSB or anything like Hypertransport for now. Instead, check your AsRock manual to see what BIOS setting is the multiplier. In the BIOS, it should look like x16, or 16x. Just change it to x17, or 17x, and you'll have a 3.4GHz CPU. No need to fiddle with the FSB or anything. I'd still recommend using AMD Overdrive: http://game.amd.com/us-en/drivers_overdrive.aspx It's way better featured than AsRock's software, and it'll help you learn anything to do with OC'ing.
nikki6ixx wrote on Fri, 25 June 2010 16:56 Yeah, often motherboard makers will give different names for things like the multiplier or FSB. I wouldn't worry about the FSB or anything like Hypertransport for now. Instead, check your AsRock manual to see what BIOS setting is the multiplier. In the BIOS, it should look like x16, or 16x. Just change it to x17, or 17x, and you'll have a 3.4GHz CPU. No need to fiddle with the FSB or anything. I'd still recommend using AMD Overdrive: http://game.amd.com/us-en/drivers_overdrive.aspx It's way better featured than AsRock's software, and it'll help you learn anything to do with OC'ing. The mobo came with AMD overdirve, amd OC tool, and lots more heres what I sued to OC it, Im at 3.5 ghz now, i raised multiplier to 16 and cpu freq to 220, from 215 question if I dont overclock it right could it actually make the pc slower? or use more cpU? Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Hmm, you probably can, but it seems like you're already overclocking like a pro. I've only touched my multiplier, and that's it, so what you're doing is more advanced than anything I have. Are you stress testing your system after performing changes with a program like Prime95? If Prime95 runs for about 15 minutes without crashing, it is a good indicator of whether your PC is stable.
nikki6ixx wrote on Sat, 26 June 2010 09:14 Hmm, you probably can, but it seems like you're already overclocking like a pro. I've only touched my multiplier, and that's it, so what you're doing is more advanced than anything I have. Are you stress testing your system after performing changes with a program like Prime95? If Prime95 runs for about 15 minutes without crashing, it is a good indicator of whether your PC is stable. so run prime15?
Ya reading up, some say they increase FBS and lower multiplier and other say the opposite, but reading some test say not much difference except higher FBS means higher volts means higher temps
Sorry for third post but what I learned so far is HT/FSB x Mulitipler = Core clock speed (GHZ) (AMD) HT = FSB NB = North bridge = FSB ( They are interchangeable (even though the FSB is actually the system bus, which is the basis for all clock speeds to include CPU, RAM PCI etc...)) Over clock Two Ways: Lower CPU Freq and raise mulitiplier, or raise freq and lower mulitiplier Freq raised = higher voltages = higher temps NB speed is cpu "reference speed x NB multiplier" i found out that asrock oc tuner program I took a SS is only changes the OC settings when pc boots, its separate from BIOS so im not using it, since some reason in bios i can only change multiplier thats what i did, I saw something (forgot name but was like HT speed freq) idk if its the FSB but im not taking any chances the settings are to high of OC for me, so I rather just use the multiplier =]
I decided to play around with my 955 for a bit today. I upped the multiplier to 19.5, and set my CPU voltage to 1.5. So that's 3.9GHz, and it ran 'stable' in Prime95 for a half hour or so; I wouldn't call that totally stable unless it ran for about 6 hours, though. My CPU has C2 stepping, so getting it to 4.0GHz is pretty tough. Your 955 may have C3 stepping and those are able to surpass that barrier more easily. Chances are, a C3 CPU may need less voltage to get to the same spot as mine has.
nikki6ixx wrote on Wed, 30 June 2010 21:55 I decided to play around with my 955 for a bit today. I upped the multiplier to 19.5, and set my CPU voltage to 1.5. So that's 3.9GHz, and it ran 'stable' in Prime95 for a half hour or so; I wouldn't call that totally stable unless it ran for about 6 hours, though. My CPU has C2 stepping, so getting it to 4.0GHz is pretty tough. Your 955 may have C3 stepping and those are able to surpass that barrier more easily. Chances are, a C3 CPU may need less voltage to get to the same spot as mine has. why voltage so high? im at 3.6 with only one voltage setting up lol i took alot of overclocking questions here =] http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6536190#post6536190
955 CPU's like mine have 'C2' stepping so they require a lot of voltage to get something decent. Yours is likely 'C3' because it's newer, and those overclock really well with little voltage. I recall a new six core Phenom needing only about 1.4 volts to hit the same speed. And, the 890FX chipset seems to be better at overclocking than the 790 too. Lucky you! Thanks for the link to the thread! Lots of helpful stuff in there.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 01 July 2010 00:20 955 CPU's like mine have 'C2' stepping so they require a lot of voltage to get something decent. Yours is likely 'C3' because it's newer, and those overclock really well with little voltage. I recall a new six core Phenom needing only about 1.4 volts to hit the same speed. And, the 890FX chipset seems to be better at overclocking than the 790 too. Lucky you! Thanks for the link to the thread! Lots of helpful stuff in there. Ya but as you can see in my last post, Its running fin as default FSb so i dotn ahve to tweak the HT bus speed or what ever and memory is up at full, but prime 32 gets BSOD =s
If it's BSOD'ing on Prime95, then chances are there isn't enough voltage going to the CPU. You need to up the CPU voltage a bit in order to make it stable. If you don't want to add more voltage then you need to either turn down the multiplier a bit, or take a chance with a system that isn't 100% stable. If you keep your current settings and play a game, you may crash.
nikki6ixx wrote on Thu, 01 July 2010 11:41 If it's BSOD'ing on Prime95, then chances are there isn't enough voltage going to the CPU. You need to up the CPU voltage a bit in order to make it stable. If you don't want to add more voltage then you need to either turn down the multiplier a bit, or take a chance with a system that isn't 100% stable. If you keep your current settings and play a game, you may crash. I set cpu volts to 1.350 and ram to 1.535 (which on both is 2 levels higher than default) and still crashed, the FSB:dram ratio i belive was same as when not over clocked, mem was 6xx mhz which was 1333 , not over clocking it, and nothing else besides the voltage and multiplier as changed and yet still crashed on occt and prime, so i may give up lol